Wine Tasting in Rhode Island

by Cynthia Parzych and John Turner

When coffee milk isn't enough.

People are often shocked, shocked to learn that wine is made in Rhode Island, and not just by mistake in the back of someone's refrigerator. But, it's true; we've even drunk some genuine Rhode Island vidal blanc in various New England seafood restaurants—without going blind. With their dry, salty character these white wines are a great match for such Rhode Island favorites as clam cakes, fried clams, fresh fish, and lobster.

There are four active wineries in Rhode Island, so one May weekend in 2001 we set off with Christopher, Dan, and Claudia in tow to visit them all.

Our first stop was Diamond Hill Vineyards in Cumberland, in the northeast corner of the state. This winery is owned by Claire Berntson and her husband. The Berntsons have set up their sales and tasting room in their pretty, 200-year-old farmhouse. Its beautiful gardens serve as the backdrop for the weddings and garden parties which they host and cater. The occasion is sure to be memorable, as only their wines are served at these events.

Years spent in France influenced the Berntsons' decision to make wine in Rhode Island, where the maritime climate is similar to that along the coast of northern Europe. They planted pinot noir vines, some of the toughest grapes to grow, in 1976. After tasting the Berntsons' pinot noir, we understand why they decided to diversify and make wine from chardonnay grapes and fruit which they grow. Surprisingly, while the chardonnay wasn't much better than the pinot noir, the cranberry apple wine was actually quite refreshing served chilled or iced. Although this is an idyllic, friendly stop on the Rhode Island wine trail, the wines themselves need some more time to develop.

It's a long drive by Rhode Island standards (about 40 miles from Providence), but our next stop, Sakonnet Vineyards and Winery in Little Compton, makes a great weekend getaway. Rhode Island's oldest winery, founded in 1975, is now run by Earl Samson and his dynamic wife Susan. We spent the weekend in Sakonnet's comfortable bed and breakfast, the Roost, and we were impressed by the growth of the operation since the early 1990s, when we last visited. The Samson's have built a large California-style tasting room, picnic facilities, and have increased the company's range of wines. The quality of Sakonnet's wines has improved since our last visit, as well.

Sakonnet makes classic vidal blanc (the 1998 we tasted is delicious) and their pinot noir may eventually prove that this grape can produce high-quality wine in Rhode Island. The best discovery of our trip was that Sakonnet has produced an excellent sparkling wine (a blend of 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir), a wine that may help to put Rhode island on the serious wine-making map. In fact, their vintage 1995 Samson Brut won four gold medals in 2001.

The next afternoon, we visited Newport Vineyards in Middletown. Right on a main road, this is a great place to visit on a rainy day, with its state-of-the-art tasting and sales room. For a $2.00 charge you can taste five or six wines and tour both the vineyards and the winemaking facilities. We enjoyed our tour, led enthusiastically by a local elementary school teacher.

By contrast, however, the guy who orchestrated the production-line tasting like a smarmy TV quiz show host (bad jokes and all), was evasive when we asked questions about the wines. We soon discovered why. Although we worked our way through the long list, we found there was little to like about most of the wines. Newport's vidal blanc tasted like grapefruit juice, but we liked their seyval blanc (a relative of vidal blanc) which was dry with a fresh, apple aroma. Newport's alcoholic apple ciders provided a refreshing contrast to the dozen or so grape-based wines we sampled. We happily gathered our "complimentary" Newport Vineyards glasses and went on our way.

Although Greenvale Vineyards in Portsmouth is only a five-minute drive from Newport Vineyards, it seems a world away. Tucked away a bit off the main road, the Parker family's vineyards are planted in beautiful positions overlooking the Sakonnet River. Greenvale has recently converted the stable of their picturesque Victorian farm into a rustic tasting room, complete with a picturesque and friendly pooch. Although new to winemaking, (until five years ago, they sold all of their grapes to Sakonnet Vineyards in Little Compton) these are very serious wine producers. We tasted their 1998 wines and were particularly impressed by Greenvale's vidal blanc, which has the characteristic dry saltiness, combined with a distinct floral aroma. Skipping Stone White is a fruity and aromatic blend of riesling with about 10% vidal blanc. Greenvale also produces high-quality red wines which are difficult to find, because they are produced in limited quantities. All the Greenvale wines we tasted were well worth taking home.

Diamond Hill Vineyards
3145 Diamond Hill Road, Cumberland, RI 02864, (800) 752-2505, (401) 333-2751
Open Thursday-Saturday, 12-5pm; Or call for an appointment.

Sakonnet Vineyards and Winery
162 West Main Road, Little Compton, RI 02837, (800) 919-4637, (401) 635-8486
Summer Hours (Memorial Day-October 1st): 10am-6pm; Tours: 11am-5pm on the hour
Winter Hours (October 1st-Memorial Day): 11am-5pm; Tours: Noon-4pm on the hour

Newport Vineyards
909 East Main Road (Route 138), Middletown, RI 02842, (401) 848-5161
Open Monday-Saturday, 10am-5pm; Sunday, 12-5pm; Tours daily at 1pm and 3pm

Greenvale Vineyards
582 Wapping Road, Portsmouth, RI 02871, (401) 847-3777
Open Monday-Saturday, 10am-5pm; Sunday 12-5pm; Tours daily at 2pm

Cynthia Parzych and John Turner write and publish books on food and wine. Their latest book is Pol Roger, the history of the Pol Roger Champagne house.

This article last edited April 4, 2002