Evelyn's Nanaquaket Drive-In

2335 Main Road, Tiverton
(401) 624-3100
www.evelynsdrivein.com

When you think clam shack, you're probably thinking of something very much like Evelyn's—a weather-beaten structure hunkered down by the water, surrounded by a parking lot paved with crushed clam shells, and with a long line out the front. It's not particularly pretty, but it doesn't have to be, because it's your stomach you're seeking to fill.

And there's plenty for your stomach to be happy about here—if you don't mind a steady diet of clam cakes, stuffies, clear chowder, lobster rolls, fried clams, fish and chips, frappes, and even meat pies.

We said that Evelyn's isn't particularly pretty, but that really depends upon your definition of the word, doesn't it? When we said that, we were thinking from the perspective of a certain kind of person who expects a certain amount of tidiness and sterility in their dining experience. Let's just say that if you think an old bus, parked next to the building and used as a storage shed, is an eyesore, Evelyn's probably isn't for you. If the thought that several seagulls have dined at the same picnic table at which you are seated makes you gag, Evelyn's is not for you. And if you think eating off paper plates with plastic cutlery is gauche, take your Purell and hit the road, because Evelyn's is definitely not for you. If, however, you find all of these things charming, authentic, and comforting, well, you probably don't need us to tell you how you'll feel about Evelyn's.

Evelyn's is named for the original owner, Evelyn Dupont, who opened the place around 1968. Back then it was just a little shack offering take-out, but later a small house was moved and added on to allow indoor seating—you can still see the old house number on the building. Around 1986 Evelyn and her husband Pat decided to retire to Florida, and they sold the business to Domenic and Jane Bitto, a young couple from near Boston.

(Dupont found she wasn't done with clam shacks yet, however, and around 1991 she opened Evelyn's New England Seafood in St. Cloud, Florida. There she continued to sling chowder and clamcakes for another fourteen years until finally retiring for good in 2005. Interestingly, she sold the business to Lori Murray, a former dishwasher from the Tiverton Evelyn's.)

Meanwhile the Bittos were concentrating on keeping their customers happy. Much of that involved continuing to serve all of the items from Evelyn Dupont's original menu, made with her original recipes. The most popular items are clam cakes and chowder, fish and chips, and the lobster roll, in that order. They didn't avoid trying new things, though, for instance chow mein sandwiches (a fascinating delicacy that originated in Fall River, Massachusetts, Chinese restaurants) and its seafood analog, lobster chow mein.

Evelyn's was profiled on an episode of the Food Network's Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives in 2007. "As wrong as it is," said host Guy Fieri, sampling the lobster chow mein, "it's right."

An electrical fire in July 2005 shut Evelyn's down for a year and a half, and the Bittos took the opportunity to upgrade the building a bit. Now that they have a shiny new kitchen, they've added healthier selections like grilled scallops, salmon, breaded catfish, and salads. The outdoor patio is a great place to scarf it all down while enjoying the fresh breezes off Nanaquaket Pond.

There's plenty of parking for cars in the lot, and for boats at the public dock, so go by car, go by boat, but go!

Evelyn's is open for lunch and dinner daily, 11:30am to 9pm, April to September.

Awards

Rhode Island Monthly: one of the ten best clam shacks in Rhode Island (1997).